magical diving in mexican cenotes
This summer, The Big Blue embarked on an unforgettable journey with a group of like-minded divers through Tulum and surrounding areas, exploring some of the world’s most breathtaking dive sites. From mystical cenotes to encounters with gentle giants of the sea, this week-long adventure was packed with awe, excitement and a touch of jungle magic.
Cenote Diving
Diving in the cenotes of Tulum is like entering another world. Each sinkhole holds its own secrets, and every dive we did revealed something new. Contrary to what many might assume, you do not need to be a certified cave diver to enjoy diving in the Yucatan’s cenotes - all you need is an Open Water certification (as a minimum) and you’ll be good to go.
However, to truly enjoy all cavern diving here has to offer - within recreational limits - Advanced and Nitrox certifications are extremely recommended. This is because some of these cenotes (natural, sacred sinkholes filled with freshwater and formed by the collapse of limestone caverns) are really deep! To fully experience some otherworldly diving like nowhere else you will want to go deeper than 18m and stay at depth for as long as you can.
After a rather long flight for most in our group and over the course of a week, we marvelled to the magic of these not-to-be-missed cenotes:
Carwash (Aktun Ha) – This cenote is a mix of contrasts - delicate colourful lily pads stretch across the surface while further below, cave-like passages twist into the limestone. Blue crabs were crawling along the bottom and small freshwater fish were swimming the plants. It felt like diving in a hidden garden, layered with surprises, and it made for a promising start.
Casa Cenote – This is more like a river than a cave, with thick mangroves on each side. Some of us spotted a glimpse of Panchito - the resident crocodile - napping by the mangroves. The light filtering through the mangrove roots and the gentle current gave this cenote a very different feel, like drifting through an underwater jungle.
Dreamgate – To dive Dreamgate is like doing a masterclass on speleology. The formations are very intricate, with stalactites and stalagmites decorating every corner. It’s definitely a more advanced cenote due to its restrictions, but totally worth sharpening your buoyancy skills for beforehand. This is one of the most decorated cave systems in the region!
Angelita - Here, we experienced two fascinating phenomena: the halocline and the sulfur cloud. The halocline is a layer where fresh and saltwater meet, creating a shimmering, wavy visual distortion. Angelita’s famous sulfur cloud, on the other hand, sits below the halocline and forms a dense, misty layer that looks like fog — it’s perfectly safe to dive through but very eerie and otherworldly in appearance.
El Pit – Absolutely breathtaking! From outside, it looks like a small entrance, but once you’re inside you realise the sheer size of the chamber you’re descending into, with depths going well over 100 meters. Sunbeams cutting through the crystal-clear water and the scale and clarity of the cenote left everyone in awe. When looking up you see the canopies of the trees over the entrance… Just lovely. Easily one of the most unforgettable dives of the trip.
Dos Ojos - The “Two Eyes” cenote. Known for its expansive caverns, it offers both vast open spaces and winding passages. The clarity of the water here makes the rock formations appear magnified, almost unreal. We did the infamous “Barbie Line” … yes, you get to see Barbie on the way! (ask me more about this!) - there’s a second line (route) that leads to a bat cave and some of us had a go to that one too.
Nikte Ha – Arriving here felt like stepping into a fairy tale. There were gorgeous water lilies everywhere on the surface, the sun was shining and the lush jungle surroundings were simply beautiful. We were welcomed by an iguana and two massive vultures perched on the railings by the cenote’s entrance. A great reminder that we were still in Mexico!
Taak Bi-Ha – This cenote is a diver’s gem with delicate decorations and beautiful openings and swim throughs. After going down some steep steps and a very dramatic entrance in the form of a cave with artificial lights powered by generators (otherwise it’d be pitch dark) we went in… Definitely a place for advanced divers with good buoyancy control. Crystal-clear water gives way to dramatic stalactite formations, some of the most impressive of the entire trip - raw, majestic cave beauty.
The Gentle Giants of the Caribbean Sea
Cenotes are impressive, but so are the largest fish in the sea! And where best to have a swim with them than the place in the entire world where they congregate in the largest numbers? Luckily for us, we were there at just the right time of year, so after a very early start (4.30am!) we drove all the way to the marina and then set off by boat for 1hr or so to our destination - off Cancun shoreline and past Isla Mujeres island. Completely worth it!
That morning there were around 60 whale sharks in the area. We swam with a quite a few in what it was truly a close encounter experience. Scientists are still unsure why male juveniles dominate these gatherings, but ongoing research is being conducted with the hope to learn more about their behaviour and migration patterns.
After the energetic morning, we spent the rest of the afternoon enjoying delicious ceviche onboard, relaxing by the beach of Isla Mujeres and enjoying the Caribbean warm waters.
Our Jungle Hideaway
Back in Tulum, our accommodation felt like a private slice of the Mayan jungle. Each apartment overlooked a refreshing pool and provided the perfect balance of relaxation and immersion in nature. Aside from our daily battles with mosquitoes, we enjoyed relaxing, fun evenings that were just as memorable as the dives.
Our private chefs cooked for us high cuisine meals daily, catering to all dietary needs, ensuring every breakfast and dinner was a real delight.
We also enjoyed together special moments such as visiting Tulum’s Mayan Ruins (both, fun and educational), Manit’s birthday celebration, and venturing out for dinner in a local restaurant. We also attended a fun festival, savouring authentic Mexican dishes and had a feel for what life in Tulum must be like while talking to locals and our wonderful guides - it all made the week even more special!
A Week to Remember
After exploring the cenotes, we headed to Cozumel for some of the region’s famous reef diving. Vibrant coral gardens and abundant marine life offered a beautiful contrast to the freshwater caverns of the cenotes.
From the first sighting of a turtle at Carwash to magical dives at El Pit, encounters with whale sharks and evenings under the stars, this trip was a celebration of adventure, nature and community.
Whether it was discovering the mysteries of the halocline, spotting Panchito napping by the mangroves or simply enjoying our very own’s little corner of the jungle, each moment reminded us of the joy of our diving community and why diving in Mexico is so special.
It was a week we won’t forget easily and it’s only the beginning of more adventures we’ll surely share together!
